Artificial Nails

I predict that this will be a long post! If you're interested in getting artificial nails but have not experienced it before, hopefully I can help. I am a fully qualified professional nail technician and I spent 70% of my training in the knowledge and application of gel nails. I can teach you about the options you have, as well as what to look out for in a salon, home care and what to notice as a client, and also what to do if things go a little bit wrong. Because I am trained in gel nail application, my views and opinions are somewhat biased, so I suggest you talk to several aestheticians and nail technicians to find out which form of artificial nails are best for you. Personally, I suggest regular manicures and nail treatments for people so they can be proud of their beautiful and healthy natural nails, but if you're more into artificial nails, hopefully this information can help you.

First, I shall start with what you should look out for when finding a salon, and the proper procedure during your session. 

To begin with, you sit down at your appointment and introduce yourself like you would when entering anywhere as a customer, and the nail technician (NT) should NOT touch you straight away! You should look around and notice a few things. She should have her credentials/qualifications/certificates in plain view and the area that she is working in should be very tidy. Everything should be cleaned, disinfected, sanitized, or sterilized, from the instruments, the desk, the chairs, the floors, and herself. You should also take note of what she is wearing. She should have a protective "lab coat" (I call it that because mine looks like a fitted, short lab coat. They don't have to be ugly) and she should be wearing professional clothing. No ripped jeans or open-toed shoes. If she has long hair, it should be tied back. Although you may or may not be allowed to bring in a sealed bottle of something to drink, she should not have any food nor drink by her station, unless it's water and placed far away. If she is using soft (fabric or cushion) files and buffers, they should not have been previously used (this does not apply to electric files or glass files). The towels you use should also be freshly cleaned or new. These details may seem a but silly, but she needs to be a professional, treat you with respect, and keep the work station hygienic!

Once you've looked at the environment that you are in, it's time to listen and to talk.  The NT Should get to know you and make you feel comfortable without being intruding. She should ask you questions about your nail and skin types, how your natural nails grow, and any concerns you may have (sensitive areas to touch like a cut, bruise, or burn). She should also ask you about your personal health, whether you are taking any medications and what, and if you're experiencing any hormone changes (puberty, pregnancy, or menopause). She should be writing down almost everything you're saying. You should also be asked to fill in a client profile where you write down your contact information, any health issues, medications, or changing hormones, as well as allergies, and your nail or skin details (nail biter, ridges, hangnails, oil/dry skin, smoker, recent exposure to sunlight/caffeine, alcohol, etc.) The information you provide should be CONFIDENTIAL and locked away! The NT needs to know this information, but her other clients don't! The NT, at this point, should get you to wash and disinfect your nails and nails (if she hasn't already) and without touching you, she should look at them. She may notice some details that perhaps you weren't aware of, and she should be writing them down. At long last, she can touch you. She should be feeling your nails and nail, turning them over, looking carefully, and still writing. Hopefully she explains to you everything that she notices, whether it be good or bad. You have a right to know about your own body.

Now comes the beginning of the (literally) hands-on part of your session. She should be giving you what is basically a manicure. ALL types of artificial nails, nail art, skin care, etc. should begin with a manicure and nail care! She should not just launch into the application! She should clean your nails and fingers well (being careful around sensitive areas), around your cuticles, your nail plate, and underneath your free edge. She is holding and manipulating your hand that is comfortable for her to work with, but it should not be uncomfortable for you.  She should apply nail oil and hand lotion (or cream or body butter) to your nails and skin to soften and hydrate them. She should then gentle push back your cuticles. I start my clients off with a rubber cuticle pusher and let them decide how firm they can tollerate it. I only use a metal one on myself. She should not clip your cuticles unless they really needed it, and she should gently nip at any hangnails you may have. She should neatly file your nails (if using forms. If she is using tips, she should file as much of your free edge as possible, but still being neat) and gently buff them. She may use a cushion file or an electric file (e-file). She may use a glass file, but she really shouldn't because they aren't customizable to fit the sensitivity of your nails as they only come in one grit. At this point, you should NOT be bleeding or feel any pain! An e-file spins very quickly which causes friction and heat, so you may feel a slight raise in the temperature of your nails, but they should neither burn nor hurt. If the NT can't hold the moving e-file against her palm, it should not be against your natural nails (although I doubt she'd show you unless you asked).Once she has buffed and filed your nails, she should clean them again. Regular manicures will continue with more oil and lotion from here, but if you're getting artificial nails, they won't. Be sure that neither you nor she touches your nail plate directly from now on without more cleaning. Dust, debris, oil, and moisture on your nail plate can interfere with the artificial nail and cause lifting.

If using forms, she should customize the individual forms to fit your individual fingers (if needed) and if she is using tips, she should customize the tips as well, and the nail glue that she applies (either to the tip or your nail) should not be so much as to run down into your cuticle (it might a little bit). The NT should also not glue herself to your nail. Most NTs use forms. A form is a template and stand to which she builds the artificial nail, and after curing, it is then removed. A tip is a stand to which she builds the artificial nail, and becomes part of the finished product until it grows out. Here is what forms and tips look like:

Once the forms or tips are in place, she should proceed with the applications. primer, bonder, product, sealer. She will be using a file quite a bit during this process, and it will be a much courser file than what was used on your natural nails. You may feel the heat of an e-file through the artificial nail, but it should neither burn nor hurt. She should also not cut you! Not all NTs will do this, but a few will use more than one strength of file on different areas of your nail so she neither causes you discomfort, and it is more accurate for her. Sometimes even the best NTs accidentally hurt you if the file gets too hot on your nail for too long because if you're a first time client, because she does not know of your threshold yet. She should apologize and stop for a short time to calm your nail down, then proceed with more caution. If she happens to cut you at all, you're in the wrong place. If she does cut you, she should stop her work and tend to the cut immediately, wiping it off, applying a cleaning solution, and wait for the bleeding to stop. She should dispose of everything that your cut or bleeding has touched, and clean or change her file (or e-file head). If you jump, call out, or even don't react but you're still cut, she should NOT continue straight away. Once she's dealt with your cut, she can continue. If she cuts you more than once or ignore your cut, don't go back there. You have every right to express your discomfort or concerns and the NT should explain to you the procedure and stop or change what she's doing, or help you with it (For example, if a UV curing light is too hot, it is not the NTs fault (nor yours) and the only thing she can do is coach you though this stage as gently and quickly as possible).

If she is using a UV curing light (gel nail require one) and you are sensitive to it, take your hand out when it gets too hot and let the NT know. Relax your hand, then either sloooowly guide your hand back into the light at your own page, removing it and trying again as you please, or try pressing your wrist against the edge of the desk. This traps the blood flow getting to your fingers as fast and it should stop the heated sensation. Gel nail curing only lasts two minutes so you shouldn't cause yourself harm or lose feeling in your fingers. If you do, don't press your wrist against the table as firmly. Release the pressure just a little bit.

Once you have the artificial nails you want, they are the colour, shape, and length that you want, and a sealer is applied, you aren't ready to leave yet. You should never feel rushed. The NT should clean your nails again and apply nail oil and hand lotion. I like to give my clients a small hand massage at the end of the session. The NT should write down your procedure and products on your client profile. If you return to her and ask "Can I please have the same colour tips/special product that you used last time?" She should have it written down in her notes. She should also have noted for next time (if there is a next time) any concerns or problems that you had (sensitivity to file or UV light, any cuts, etc.). She should then talk to you about what to expect from your nails, how to use and handle them, how to take care of them, and some home-care tips that you should use until your next appointment. She should give you the option to book your next appointment there and then so you don't have to phone back. She will let you know how long to wait until your next booking. Don't feel that you have to book that day, or at all. If you like your nails, NT, and the session, then book away, but if you felt discomfort, pain, don't like the final look of your nails, or you were concerned about the NTs lack of pre-work (cleaning, manicure, etc.) or lack of proved qualifications, you don't have to return to her; It is your every right.

A full set of artificial nails should cost around $60-$100 (Canadian dollars) and the entire session should last about 2-3 hours. You shouldn't feel rushed, but it should also not take 5 or 6 hours to complete (If it does, they may be a new NT, unprofessional, or ridiculously distracted). If the NT does:
Not talk to you about your nails, skin, and health first
Not keep records
Not use clean equipment
Not start with nail care treatments/manicure
Not stop and tend to your discomforts or cuts and ignores them
Cut you several times
Not teach you how to take care of your nails
Cost less than $60 or more than $140
Take less than an hour
Then you are in the wrong place and should either talk to their supervisor or find a different salon to go to. You are the client and you are paying them. They should treat you with care and respect and be professionals. Although they do need to have comfort for themselves in order to achieve maximum quality to your nails and satisfaction, they should not ignore your needs.

Fact about the different types of artificial nails and their differences.


Powder/Liquid Systems (Also referred to as Acrylic, Porcelain, or Glass)
A brush is dipped into a liquid called a Monomer and then dipped into a powder. The powder will moisten, then it is applied to the nail (either over a tip od sculpted into a form) to create a nail. It is air dried, filed into shape, buffed to a shine as much as possible, then sealed with polish or a light cured UV protective gel to lessen the discolouration effect.

• Yellowing
• Odour
• Primer; an aggressive liquid used to create better adhesion of product to the nail by slightly disintegrating natural nail plate for extra friction.
• Porous; increased risk os microbial infection
• Very hard; non flexible product will not move with the movement of the natural nail (and if it breaks, it hurts like frick!)
• Cannot be personalized to nail type of client
• Often composed of very harsh chemicals that will compromise the health of the natural nail, skin, or body
• To be soaked off with acetone (be careful what nail polish remover you use)

Resin and Powder Systems (Also referred to as Glue and powder or Diamond Dip)

Cyan acrylate (glue) is applied to the entire nail and tip, and then the finger is dipped into the same powder as used in the Liquid/Powder system. Once the product has air dried, the procedure is repeated until the desired shape is created. To complete this application the nail must be filed into shape, buffed to a shine, and sealed with a polish.

• Yellowing
• Difficult to create shape or do shape correction
• Porous (increased risk of microbial infection
• Very hard; non flexible product will not move with the movement of the natural nail (and if it breaks, it hurts like frick!)
• Cannot be personalized to nail type of client
• No shape correction
• Primer (an aggressive liquid used to create better adhesion of product to the nail by slightly disintegrating natural nail plate for extra friction.)
• To be soaked off with acetone (be careful what nail polish remover you use)

Wrap Systems (Also referred to as Fiberglass, Silk, or Linen)

This system can only be used with a tip or natural nail. A piece of fabric is cut out to fit the nail; it is applied to the nail with glue and sprayed with an ammonia based activator to harden the glue. Once dry, the nail is then filed into shape, buffed to a shine, and sealed with polish.

• Porous (increased risk of microbial infection)
• Yellowing
• Visible Fibres
• Vapours from the ammonia based product
• Difficult to create shape or do shape correction
• To be soaked off with acetone (be careful what nail polish remover you use)

Acrylic Based Gel (not actually gels)

A "Gel" like product is applied to the nail then placed into a UVA light unit to cure for the recommended amount of time. The process will harden the "gel". Then the product is reapplied and cured until the desired shape is created. Once the shape is created, the nail is filed and buffed and a gel is applied and cured to seal the nail with a high gloss shine finish.

• Yellowing - some brands more than others
• Often primer used; aggressive liquid used to create better adhesion of product to the nail by slightly disintegrating natural nail plate for extra friction
• Odour - some brands more than others
• Porous (sincreased microbial infection) - some brands more than others
• Cannot be personalized to clients needs and nail type
• Often "Private" Labels (different brands are made by one manufacturer)
• Often can take 12-24 hours to complete curing process
• To be soaked off with acetone (be careful what nail polish remover you use) or filed off.

LCN Light Cured Resin (This is the gel that I personally offer in my salon)

• Provides superior strength and durability
• Provides elasticity similar to natural nails (if it breaks, it doesn't really hurt)
• Outstanding bio compatibility 
• Contains large molecules which do NOT penetrate the skin, therefore are not harmful to the human body.
• No harsh chemicals - Environmentally friendly
• No odour
• No primer - Healthier choice
• No yellowing - guaranted!
• Removal is to grow out of be filed and does not soak off with acetone (so use whatever nail polish remover you like)
• Complete curing time in 2 minutes.

Hair stylists look at the structure of the hair, estheticians look at the structure of skin and nails. Most of the time one product is used for all clients (i.e., acrylic) even though we have different structured nails such as thick, thin, ridged, soft, oily, dry, flat, arched, etc. but with pure gels, many different products are available to fit the client's personal needs. 

What is a "Grit" on a nail file and what types can I use?

A file surface is called "grit" which will determine how soft of course the file is.

80 grit - Very Course

100 grit - Course; can be used on artificial nails

120 grit - Medium Course

180 grit - Fine; recommended for use on natural nails

220 grit - Very fine

240 grit - Soft; for buffing to a smooth finish

500 grit - Very Soft; to polish the nail shiny

A file with a lower grit will have less "bumps" on the file, like sand paper, but these bumps will be bigger. A file with a higher grit will have more "bumps" on the file, but these bumps will be smaller.

What to do when things go wrong!

If you look at the above picture, you can see that the nails just don't look very nice. There is too much tip, they are a terrible shape, they are lumpy, the product goes over my cuticle, my fingers are slightly red and swollen, and I'm bleeding. I was so desperate to stop my nail biting before I became a nail technician that I decided to spend $10 getting gel nails. It hurt, the work was terrible, the NT didn't talk to me through the whole session. She had no certificate, it took half an hour, and two days later 8 of the false nails had fallen off. Gel nails may light slightly as they grow out, and if you pick at them, you'll increase this, but they should not fall off if you leave them alone, and especially not after two days. If you get your nails done first time and the only thing wrong with them is they don't have that perfect look that you want, then be patient. it does take a few sessions and appointments for your nails to look the way you want, but they should still at least look nice after your first appointment.

Before your nails get to this condition, pay attention to which salon or NT you're booking your appointment with and check to see if they are qualified, how much time it takes, and the price. During your appointment, check to see if the NT is using clean instruments, prepping your nails by cleaning them and manicuring them first, and not just launching into the procedure. If you get hurt or cut, does the NT stop and help you? The nails will look a funny shape during the session, but should look good at the end.

If it's too late and you're in this position already, I'm sorry that you experienced that are are probably put-off, but I will do my best to help you. If you wish to remove your artificial nails, the safest thing to do is wait for them to grow out. Don't pick at them, and file them quite short so this takes less time. If you find another salon that does good quality work, depending on your existing nails and their products, you might be able to have them fill your nails as the bad ones grow out. It won't look perfect straight away, but it will improve over time. Another thing you can do is file them away. I don't recommend this, but it's an option. Filing them takes hours and is quite dangerous if you over file. If you do it yourself, you will be able to know how sensitive you are, and you can feel the heat or pain of heavy filing and stop when you need to. If you go to a professional, they might be able to to this faster and more accurately, but they can't feel what you feel, and might end up hurting you. Filing natural nails or false nails during an application is one thing, but to remove these nails is very different and difficult and risky. Te third option is if the artificial nails can be soaked off with acetone, you can try that. This WILL hurt if you have any cuts, and may not remove the nails entirely. It also weakens your natural nail. Acrylics change the molecular structure of you nail plate by slightly disintegrating it to extra bonding, so when you remove your acrylics, it won't look pretty. If it's gels, they cannot be removed with acetone, but your natural nail should still be nice and healthy (and whole) underneath. Don't scrape or pick away at any excess. That and mistakes while filing can cause permanent damage to your nails or cuticles, and this may cause the way your nails continue to grow. 

Whichever method of removal or change you choose, continue with these steps as often as you can. Moisturize you fingers and nails as much as possible. I suggest several times a day. Carry lotion or oil in your purse or pocket, because the more you do this, the better. It's a myth that you can apply too much to your nails (your face is a different story). You want your hands to be well hydrated. You can use any lotion you want (creams, body butter, lotion, etc.) and any oils will do (nail oil, almond oil, olive oil, cooking oil, etc.) Don't use cuticle remover; that stuff is nasty. When applying the nail oil, either rub it into your cuticles and nail, or soak your nails in a bowl of oil. Try to avoid having your hands in water for long with chemicals. This means when you wash the dishes, wear rubber gloves. Showers and baths are fine, it's clean water and but your nails will be weaker for a few hours afterwords. Push back your cuticles every so often (once or twice a week, if not every day) very gently. You can use any cuticle pusher you like. I use rubber on my clients until I get to know their sensitivity, and I only use metal on myself. Don't use anything with a pointy end so you don't poke yourself. Clean your cuts and bleeds as much as you can, and depending on how bad they are, apply an anti-bacterial something like Polysporin and perhaps a band-aid or plaster. keep your cuts clean so you don't get an infection. In the search bar on this blog, try to find my "Nail Care" post and follow the instructions there. Not only will it help with improving the state of your nails, but it actually helped me stop biting mine and grow long, strong, and healthy nails. 

So why doesn't the whole world use gels?

The reason acrylics and these other products still exist is because many people don't know the difference between them, and some don't know that other products other than acrylics exist. Some people with extreme hormonal or skin/nail conditions cannot find a gel product that works for them (many do exist for several different conditions, but sometimes they are difficult to come across), so they cannot keep gels on. This effects about 5% of everyone who has artificial nails. So it's rare. Some people have had acrylic nails all their lives and don't want to try switching to gels, and some like acrylics, which is fine. If you like the product and it's working for you, that's great. Acrylics are harsh on your natural nails, discolour, smell, and they are rock hard, so a lot of people dislike them, but if those details don't both you, by all means continue with your acrylic nails. Acrylics and gels cost about the same amount, price-wise. because I am professionally trained to apply LCN gel nails, and have had bad experiences with other products, I'm slightly biased, but I'm here to give my honest opinion and help you with finding the right salon or NT and help you if you've had a bad experience. As I stated at the beginning, it may be a good idea to ask around for other's opinions if this is your first time so you have a clear view of the different options available to you. Some salons can add rhinestones or decals to your gels. I can, too, and you know I also offer nail art. 

I hope this was helpful to all of you! Yes, it's a long read, and if you're not into artificial nails, of course you ca give this post a miss. It's here for you when and if you ever need it, and you can ask me as many questions as you like in a comment or e-mail (scribblingwithpolish@gmail.com) and I'll be happy to help you! Thanks for reading!